comment 0

Manta Ray


Manta Ray. Photo by Simon Wilder

Nathan is cautious with money. In no way is this meant as criticism, I wish I was more like him. He doesn’t like to spend it on food and drink outside the home, it’s how he was brought up. He told me last week that he buys still water because it’s cheaper than fizzy. You may think buying water at all is a display of reckless extravagance, but tap water in Israel has a distinct taste that he, or I, have yet to acquire. Read More

comment 0

Matzoh brei

I went to the Seder at the Gay Centre in the sweet little park somewhere between Bograshov and King George. Nathan, my best friend here, had sent me the link. He was in Frankfurt, but I should go, anyway, and I signed up. It’s no more than a ten minute walk. Tel Aviv was mostly closed for the evening, just the am:pm, and the Olive Korner, who were doing a Seder meal for 150nis. The most unexpected thing was when I passed a man wearing a tie. Read More

comment 1


It is my first night in Tel Aviv. I arrived less than 24 hours earlier, and I may be staying for the rest of my life. I’m on a date with a handsome and charming man I met on the internet. He takes my hand and pulls me towards M25, in Carmel Market. It is dark and passages are being hosed clean of the day’s debris. It is an unpromising approach.

M25 is a scruffy, hole-in-the-wall that many visitors to Tel Aviv, I’m sure, would rush by if they were even to find themselves anywhere close. They would be making a grave mistake.

Other times I’ve visited Tel Aviv I’ve seen little evidence of the burgeoning Israeli food culture people write about. Restaurants here, I mean ‘good’ restaurants, are often expensive, pretentious and, to a Londoner, old-fashioned. If you’re hoping for a city full of Ottolenghi, Honey & Co, and Palomar-style distinction, you will mostly be disappointed. But M25, an offshoot of a butcher a few metres away, is fresh and very good. There would be a 3-hour queue outside it every night if it was in East London. In Tel Aviv it is busy, noisy and more fun than driving down Diezengof at 130kpm. (Like I’d ever do such a thing)! It is restaurant as theatre of the most entertaining and delicious kind. Read More

comment 0

The Coach

In case you don’t already know, I’m leaving. I’m moving to Tel Aviv in a few weeks and it’s still uncertain exactly when I’ll get on the plane. I’ve arranged everything as if I was flying this week, but I’m not. You may imagine how frustrating this is.

On Saturday I waved goodbye to Primrose Hill Farmers’ Market where I’ve gone almost every week in the year it’s been open. I love it and urge you to visit, if you have a chance. On Sunday, Amanda and her mother, Naomi, gave me a farewell breakfast at Fischer’s. On Tuesday, while men were emptying everything from my flat into a lorry, I said goodbye to my 82-year-old mother. That evening I started sleeping on a friend’s sofa bed. His front door is constantly blocked by the queue for Kanada-Ya. Maybe I’ll actually go, now I’m so close. Read More

comment 0


DSC00411This week I ate at Sardine, which is just off the City Road, a location that, I think, a few years ago would have been unthinkable for a smart restaurant. Even now, with every other building around it an art gallery or architect’s office, this area between Hoxton and Islington is slightly forbidding and unknowable. Further East is where the centre of the city’s new restaurant vanguard lies, with The Clove Club and Lyle’s and the rest. But rather than the New British cooking they offer, Sardine’s style is food from Southwest France cooked over a wood fire. It had been a dull, damp day in high summer and we were ready for it.

Sardine opened only a few weeks ago. It is new enough that photos of it and the food it serves pop up on my Twitter and Instagram feeds every few minutes. I expect it’s called Sardine because diners are fitted in like fish in a can. You knock the backs of peoples’ heads as you squeeze through to your seats. It was almost full, so there were many heads to knock. The chairs, Thonet bentwood, reminding us that we’re eating French food, were arranged close together along a communal, zinc-topped table. There are smaller tables along one side, and an open kitchen along the other. You may be more comfortable in either. The room is loud with the noise of people trying to be heard over other people trying to be heard. We ordered a pichet de rosé and some glaçons. We looked at the reassuringly short menu; better to do a few things well than many things badly. Read More

comment 0

Food for all Seasons, Oliver Rowe

It’s a bit of a surprise to open a cookbook in 2016 and there not be any lush photography to seduce me. It’s a long time since I last bought a cookbook without pictures. It reflects, possibly, the slightly monk-like food philosophy of the author, who values localism and seasonality highly. Photography is expensive, as are photographers, and £20 feels a bit steep for a book without them. Actually, I didn’t buy this. Faber, which doesn’t often publish cookbooks, generously sent me a copy, saving me £20. However, this isn’t a regular cookbook. There are recipes, of course there are, but, unlike almost every other cookbook in the shop, reading this will not just give you a better dinner, but will make you a better cook, too.

I once ate at Konstam at the Prince Albert, Oliver Rowe’s Kings Cross restaurant, which closed five or six years ago. It only, I think, used ingredients sourced from within the M25*, the motorway that circles London, like a moat. (Moatorway?) That is a romantic proposal, but localism and food miles are about as complicated as any ideas in the world of food. Of course there are virtues in not transporting food thousands of miles, but how would Kenyan farmers do without fine bean money, Peruvian farmers without asparagus revenue? Fish swim in the Thames, but not necessarily fish I want for supper. I’m not saying tomatoes grown in Northern Europe are worthless, but I do think they are worth less than ones grown under warm, Southern sun. I couldn’t, wouldn’t, want to cook without lemons. Besides, we aren’t medieval peasants, relying on the fields and forests around our hamlet.  Read More

comment 0

Beigel Bake

As an extra to my post on East London Food, here are some pictures I took at Beigel Bake a while ago. As you can see, they bake their beigels on the premises and they are exactly how I expect a beigel to be; chewy and a bit of a struggle to pull a piece away. I grew up when it was spelled beigel, and pronounced buy-gel, as they do here. The modern, doughy, bread-with-a hole-incarnation, the bagel, bay-gel, leaves me cold. Boiling them briefly before they’re baked is what gives them their chewiness.  Read More